Year/model recommendation for 94 & older BMW purchase

94gsr

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#1
I'd love to get into an older model BMW. This will be a daily driver, but I'm going to do what I can to make it go faster and handle better. Price needs to be under $8000. From a performance standpoint, what year/model/trim would y'all recommend?
 

junglestylz

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#2
I would recomend a 1992-1994 325is. It is a decent sized engine. It will go as fast as you should need. It is also very easy to find parts for and has a good look about it.
 
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#3
You should have no problem finding a nice E36 (3 series chassis designation for models produced 92-99 in the US, generally speaking) for less than $8k.

If you search this site (and others) you should be able to find a wealth of information on the known problem areas of each of the models.

I would look for a 93-95 325i or 325is (is denotes two door in this context, not in all contexts), as the 92s have gray bumpers, a few less features, and the non-vanos M50 engine, which is okay, but not quite as responsive as later vanos-equipped models.

The earlier E30 (1984-1991 US) 3 series are also nice cars.

An older 5 series would also be a decent choice, either E34 (1989-1995 US) or E28 (1982-1988 US).

It really depends on what you need/want in a car. A little more information in that regard may help with our responses.

An understanding of the potential problem areas is crucial, as some of these cars can have very expensive problems. A pre-purchase inspection by a bmw mechanic is a must.

There are few things more expensive than a cheap BMW (or Ferrari, Porsche, etc.)
 

94gsr

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#4
My main concern is really performance. I need a stick & I need a curb weight of under 3000lbs, at the very most, once I've trim some fat. Dependability is also an issue, as I DO need something reliable, but I work in a shop, so as long as parts aren't failing left & right, I can take care of any problems. The car only needs to hold up for three years, but they will be three very hard years - I am a driver in every sense. [burnout]

I picked up an Autotrader today & an '88 M5 listed for $6500, with only 85k miles on it, caught my eye. But unless there's a lot of room for weight reduction, it's entirely too heavy for my tastes. There were quite a few 93ish 325i's in there also, so I guess I've got some phone calls to make.
 
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#5
94gsr said:
My main concern is really performance. I need a stick & I need a curb weight of under 3000lbs, at the very most, once I've trim some fat. Dependability is also an issue, as I DO need something reliable, but I work in a shop, so as long as parts aren't failing left & right, I can take care of any problems. The car only needs to hold up for three years, but they will be three very hard years - I am a driver in every sense. [burnout]

I picked up an Autotrader today & an '88 M5 listed for $6500, with only 85k miles on it, caught my eye. But unless there's a lot of room for weight reduction, it's entirely too heavy for my tastes. There were quite a few 93ish 325i's in there also, so I guess I've got some phone calls to make.
An E28 M5 is not a car for the budget enthusiast. $6500 is well below market value for a correct M5 with 85k. I would expect that car to have problems. Mechanical condition is key, as the S38 engine is very expensive to replace. The SLS system is also an issue. M5-specific cosmetic parts are ridiculous. New seats are like $4k.

Market is more like $13k, despite what guides like KBB or NADA might say. They use a standard depreciation formula that has no basis in reality for such cars.

The E36 325i is probably your best choice, although the older E30s are probably put together a little better than the newer ones.

The 325i 5spd has a curb weight of around 3100 pounds, so with a little diet you should meet your target. Just make sure the car has been well taken care of and have someone familiar with all of the known E36 problems go over the car. I am talking about a several hour comprehensive inspection that may cost a few dollars. In the long run, it will save you a ton of money.

Known problems include failure of the plastic water pump impeller. Any car you are looking at should have had this replaced. The radiators are weak, particularly the plastic neck. The rear shock mounts can fail and make a lot of noise. There is an issue known as the "rear subframe failure" that actually does not involve the subframe. I forget the specifics, but that is something you want to have checked. The M50 timing chains last a long time. When I sold mine with 148k it was still going strong.

Expect some issues with suspension leaks and an eventual steering rack failure between 150-250k miles, which will cost $2k to fully replace.

I spent around $100 a month on maintenance and repairs for my E36, which I bought with 97k and sold with 148k about 2 1/2 years later.
 

Matt0217

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#6
I noticed you said you wanted a stick and a performance car, etc..... I have a 1985 325e thats for sale. Its got a straight 6, 2.7 L engine and I out one of those tri-flo mufflers on it. Its a pretty fast car, very reliable, and very affordable too, and its for sale so if you are interested in it email me @ Smut_Villain_06@yahoo.com for more info.
 


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