Buying first BMW

plphoenix

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#1
Hello all:
This is my first post as being a new member of the forum. From the messages that I have read, it seems like a very friendly environment and I hope to learn more about BMWs from these posts.

Anyway, I have been saving for quite some time and am thinking of buying a new 2004 330i. Living in So Cal, I was wondering what kind of deal I can shoot for by paying all cash (about 35 k or so?) and how much power I have in negotiating since I am paying all cash. Anyway help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

-Gabe
 
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#2
Paying all cash isn't as great as you may think. The dealer basically has no chance of making any money off of you. If you financed, he at least can make some money off of you through the financing, even if he drops the price of the actual car. I paid cash and didn't get any special discount.

For deals, try using carsdirect.com or AAA (the roadside service people) price as a starting point for negotiations. Crevier in Santa Ana is the #1 BMW dealer in the nation and they're really nice. I hear those ads for crazy deals from Nick Alexander and I hear they're actually pretty good at dealing. The only one I know to avoid for certain (100%) is McKenna in Norwalk. They'll just straight rip you off or be rude ot you.
 
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#3
Totally agree. Paying your new car in total cash will get you little to no discounts. Keep in mind that the dealer receive commission from your loan. Be honest with them and tell them that you are willing to finance the mininum amount needed for them to earn their commission. In return, the dealer should knock a hundred or so off the final price. Ask them how long you need to keep the account open till they earn the commission, it's normally 3-4 months. Than you can pay off the loan in full. And yes, you will have to pay interest, but for about $5000 - $7500 for example, that's about $10 to $15 in interest per month. Not too bad for a $100 or $200 off the final price. Both side wins.

I got my price quote from Consumer Report Auto and MSN Autos. The price given from my Intenet Manager were exactly the same as the number on MSN Autos. I'm in So Calf as well. Good luck.
 

Big Daddy

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#5
To get a super deal get preapproved with another lender first, then not telling the dealers make your best deal on the car price. I did this with my first roadster, back in 96 when they were adding to the MSRP and taking deposits for a waiting list. I used a large credit union I belong to (the largest in the world) and got a money order good for up to my preapproved amount. All I had to do was fill in the amount and pay to. After the deal I filled in the total amount, wrote in the dealers name and handed it over. I could then pay off the low interest loan with no penalties if I desired.
 

plphoenix

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#6
Thanks for the help guys! It seems like cash doesn't have much power these days anymore. I will be sure to checkout Santa Ana's deals (I always doubted McKenna). Big Daddy, could you maybe give an example about having a credit union help you out? I'm sorry but I'm fairly new at this whole new car buying (barely graduating) and would greatly appreciate an example of what you were talking about. Thanks again![:)]
 
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#7
Credit union normally give you better rate than a bank like BOFA of Wells Fargo. What you need to do is call your credit union and ask for a pre-approve loan. They may ask for the type of car (year and model) and amount you desire. Your credit union will run a credit check to determine the amount you can borrow. Once complete, they will mail/fax you a letter with the amount you can borrow. Now, take that letter to your dealership and tell them how much you would like to borrow from your bank, than they will take care the rest.
 
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#8
credit unions used to be exclusive to members of a particular group ,say like an electricians union . Not anymore.You can join almost any credit union without hesitation. They offer free checking accounts , and they wont charge you if your balance is low . Some banks will charger you if your chk. acc. goes under 1500..( lame ) well c.u. are ususally smaller and very people friendly . They have the best interest rate for borrowing . Mine is 3.75 for new and 4.5 for a used vehicle.

so go online and find some credit unions in your area pick one you like and ask them about auto loans . They might ask you if you're a member . Say you will if they can give you an auto loan ..They 'll run a credit check and see how much you pre qualify for and for what car ..

The advantage is when you go into the dealership you already know how much you can borrow , and you've locked into a great % rate . So the dealer can't say " The best I can do for you is 10.5 % " You'll be more confident at the dealers instead of guessing how much you can borrow and at what % .

I just refinanced my bimmer from 7% to 4.5% at my credit union . Saved $70 a month and over 2,000 in interest over the life of the loan ..good luck and do your research ..[thumb]
 

plphoenix

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#10
Thanks again, guys- it's nice to always get such a quick reply from this community!

I do have one quick question though (forgive my slow mind with the loans). To recap, my situation is that I have enough cash to buy this car. However, the problem comes in that I cannot get much of a price reduction even though I can pay it in all cash. One person said that the dealer receives a commission based on the loan given. If I get a loan from a credit union, won't that leave the dealer with no commission anyway? The thing is I don't really need a loan unless I have to get one to get a discount on the car price, so how does a credit union benefit me if it isn't the auto dealer's loan where the dealer can get the commission? Any clearing up is always greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

I have already looked at some Internet sites for more prices. Thanks for the sites, guys!
 
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#11
you make the dealer think you need to finance it (just don't mention paying cash for it and be vague if he brings it up). Basically, just concentrate on negotiating the bottom line price for the car, regardless of paying method. It shouldn't matter anyways. Dealers try and pad their profits by just juggling numbers to match what you can "afford" to pay per month. That's stupid b/c they can get you a lower monthly payment by stretching it out a few extra months even if you're paying full MSRP. Same idea with leasing, you want to negotiate the price of the car before discussing anything else.

oh, another sorta related tip. When taking a car for a test drive, bring a photocopy of your driver's license with you. And write on it, "No credit checks" Dealers usually run your credit while you're on a test drive and too many of those can negatively affect your credit score. This is a good website to read about before buying a car: http://www.carbuyingtips.com/carintro.html
 

carcus

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#12
Do not be afraid to pay with cash up front.....might get you more than you expect. Make an offer with cash up front first, than go to a different dealer and try the same deal with some money down, play the dealers against each other, make them put the best deal on paper. Do dealers want some commission....yep, let them know you will give a little, but want to take a little also. Go to a few dealers, or best bet, surf the net and check out online quotes. Just my 2 cents. My opinion, running into a dealer with cash up front....they are ready to deal....if not, than take the cash to another dealer, they will walk you to your car driving away with a better offer.....my experience.[;)]
 

bimmer'd

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#13
PAY CASH, FINANCE - GET A DEAL!

OK -- here it is direct from a former car salesman for many years in NYC and Miami who worked both for many dealerships and for myself. You want the best price -- that's fair. Dealer wants the highest sale price -- and will use every trick he can to get it. He'll juggle the numbers anyway he can to get you where he wants you. Sure, he'll take money off the price - and whoever said $100 - $200 off is a good discount - is really being much too soft & nice with the salesman and dealer! You should walk in the dealership figuring you can take $1000 +/- off the price!
Anyway - the dealer will lower the price if you're gong to finance with him because of the points he'll make on the interest rate he'll charge you, that's true. He may get the $ for 5-6 % let's say, but offer it to you for 10%, and then lower the price of the car a bit, &/or then maybe even lower the interest a half point, just to get you to buy -- TODAY!
Either way -- he's making money off you. And there's not much you can do about the dealer making money -- don't worry so much about that -- the guy's in business to make money - so let him. Just don't let yourself get ripped off in the process. The dealer's got every right to make a FAIR profit.
So, what you've got to do is be firm, strong and equipped with knowledge. Don't go into the dealer like a kid with 5 bucks who goes into a candy store -- looking to spend every nickel on the candy that catches his eye - no matter if there are better deals on the candy to be had. Do not fall in love with the car! There is always another car, and the BMW fact'y will make more. Promise.
OK -- so now you've got to be ready to play the game with the dealer. And the extent to which you play the game depends on how much of a discount you want and how badly you want it. This can be really fun if you let it be. So -- don't tell the dealer you have CASH; don't tell him you're pre-approved from a credit union! You don't have to tell him anything! Just keep going & going for the best price. He's going to start that: "If I can sell you this car for $xx,xxx.xx will you buy it today?" Or, "If I can sell you this car for this much and you finance with our company and I can get you this x percentage rate for this x term, will you buy the car today?" Or, "If I can waive the dealer fees (which is sometimes very difficult to do, but not impossible) and I can get you the price you want at the interest rate you want and the term you want,. will you buy the car today and finance with us?" Sounds like he's giving you the ranch doesn't it? Hold on buddy -- read the words I typed. If I can...will you...today. Those are the important words to hear. He's not promising you ANYTHING when he says all that. He's just saying the things you want to hear wrapped inside some shifty wording, so when he comes back from the finance manager or the sales manager or whomever it may be in the other room pumping him up to go back to you and get more money - he can always say, "Well, I couldn't get you this much because that's under our cost to get the car in here and we can't lose money, but since it's Wednesday or the end of the month or the middle of the month or the first of the month or whatever, I can probably get you something more like this: and he'll show you or write down an amount that is much higher than you want to pay... then it all begins -- the "Step Process" of sales. He's going to step you up to the price he wants, and he's going to fdo it a little at a time, and the salesman is going to try and make you believe that he's fighting for you, and that the manager is a hard-ass. But he's getting it done for you -- he's softening up the manager for you. Yeah right! But after a few trips to the manager -- you've already been stepped up a bunch of money you didn't intend on spending when you walked in. But they're wearing you down, making a good show that the salesman is on your side and playing you into their hand.
Don't tell them anything, or bend the truth like they will - you can always say you changed your mind. But when you get the price you want - keep them thinking you're going to finanace with them, but get the price in writing. Pull the same thing on them that they'll pull on you. Tell them, "OK. If you'll sell me this car at this price I'll buy today, but only if you initial that." And have the salesman and manager do just that. Now, when they start sending you back to the finance man -- who's going to try and sell you warranties, floor mats, undercoating over the existing undercoating, auto insurance, life insurance just in case you die - you want your car paid off, and who knows -- if his brother's into Mutual Funds -- he may try to sell you on those as well -- tell this guy as he begins to write up the credit doc's, "hold on sir, I just have to make a quick call" -- and make like you're calling your bank - or actually call them to discuss the rate and term of the loan the dealer is going to give you. This will really throw the finance mgr off (piss him off is more like it) and then begin your back-out of the dealer financing. It may get a little sticky at this point, but remember, you can always walk out. And if they let you get to the door once you've go to this point - none of you ever had any sort of meeting of the minds anyway and all was for naught.
Happy buying. Recent grad huh? Good training in the world of negotiations. If you can negotiate that - you can sell the empire state building to Iowa.
Saro
 

bimmer'd

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#15
Tweet --
Good on ya'. That's the funny thing about the car business -- it's as fickle as the wind. You never can predict how every deal will go. It depends on so many things -- the numbers the dealership is pulling at the time, whether the salesman & manager are hung-over or not (car salesman party like there's no tomorrow!), etc, etc...
So that just goes to prove - nothing's impossible. So all the more reason to go in "armed to do battle" and hope for the best.
I make a part-time living being a buyers assistant for people buying new & used cars nowadays, so I've seen many, but not all, of the tricks, schemes, ploys, approaches, pitches, and slants. All designed to get you to spend more money when you buy that car.
I still say, and always will, that the best strategy is to figure out what you are willing to pay for the car you want (within reason of course), do your homework, and go get that car. These days buying a new vehicle is a major investment ($30,000 +) for mostof society; so doing a bit of homework could save you lots of time and money.
Now get in that Bimmer and drive ... ~
Ciao e` auguri...buon natale e` nuovo anno tutti.
Saro
 

plphoenix

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#17
Thanks everyone for the extra help! Hopefully this can be a thread to be used by future possible BMW owners! Thanks for the website, codex- I am finding a lot of useful tips at that website and have started getting some quotes already and checked my credit score (so far, so good). Bimmer'd, thanks for the great tips- it appears that the mistake many buyers make is not being as tough as the dealer. With so many years of dealing, I bet you have been able to find people's soft spots and been able to push them to make yourself win in the deal. I love that tip about the phone call- hilarious!

Don't about selling to Iowa just yet- gotta finish the deal with SeaWorld to Phoenix. The test driving starts next week......
 

Big Daddy

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#18
When I bought that first roadster in 97, I got it for $1500.00 less than BMW in Portland was willing to sell it and $2500.00 less than the dealership in Seattle wanted. I paid less than MSRP and came in pre-approved by my credit union with the check in hand. I got what I wanted for less than I was willing to pay.
 

bimmer'd

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#19
Like I've said before -- and I'll say it again: you never know what kind o' deal you'll get till the dealin's done. Good on ya' Big Daddy -- that doesn't happen too often as I'm sure you're aware. But if you're ready to go and know what you want and what you can pay & the money's just waiting to be spent -- it's all easy from there...most times anyway.

happy sales to you...till we deal again
bimmer'd
 

plphoenix

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#20
I have another quick question. Do you guys think it is really worth paying the extra 5 or 6 thousand to go from a 325 to a 330? I know the 330 has a bigger engine and more features, but is it really worth paying that much extra? It will come down to what my needs are, yes, but I am wondering just exactly what else I am getting for putting in that much more into a higher model. Thanks again!
 


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